As pioneers made their way to untamed places in the western country, there were not stores or markets that offered groceries for easy purchase, and, more often than not, there was simply no cash in the coffer to buy something.
Wild game was an obvious option, regularly taken to provide a day's meal. Whether it was buffalo steak, elk stew or deer meat, there was also culinary fare derived from fowl of various sorts and sizes. Whether it was flesh or occasionally eggs in the summer season, prevalent birdlife often was the difference between nourishment or hunger pangs as multitudes of pioneers - one by one - traversed the plains on their way to the western coast of North America.
In particular at California, the often essential use of birds for a meal was noted as soon as there were newspaper reports about the people and commerce of the new territory and state.
An initial report - from 1848 - indicates the value of birds to the local community of San Francisco. The "Local Matters" section conveys the significance of wild birds as table fare.
... "Some will want employment who cannot get employed -- we believe that such a one will be able to do well, it he is a steady man, by going out with his gun to the swamps, beaches and plains, which skirt our beautiful bay, and supplying the community at a fair rate with such articles of game as abound there, to wit, ducks, geese, plover, snipe, quail, hare and deer. Every two or three days he could pack in the fruits of his labor, and calling around he could readily vend the same; or we have no doubt Messrs. Eggleston & Co. would immediately rid him of his burden and contract with him for a regular supply." - California Star and Californian
During this era, and continuing for decades, birds and other mammals were the target of many people carrying a loaded gun. An animal could provide a days' meal or be sold to get some change in the pocket. As commerce increased, wild game became a regular feature of local markets, with the local newspaper noting current prices along with other purchasable commodities.
In February, 1850, an elk carcass and a variety of birds prominently displayed for the bustling and hustling residents on the streets of San Francisco on the bay:
"Game.--The front of the Central House for two days past, has presented an appearance which would set a bon vivant to dancing a highland fling or a pas seul on the side walk. A huge elk decorated one side of the door, while hundreds of duck, brant, geese, plover, curlew, quail, snipe, peep, heron, and other birds, in the utmost profusion, covered the entire front of the building. We have rarely seen such a sight, and if the "Tall son of York" could have been with us, he would have "smiled" most desperately." - Daily Alta California
One of the earliest details about wild birds being offered on eatery menus is given in a advertisement printed in December 1850 when "gold fever" was prevalent in the bear state. The proprietors included a graphic of what appears to be a shorebird of some sort. The promotion said:
"Hole in the Wall Restaurant.
Quail and Oyster Soup. Goose, Duck, quail, snipe, plover, curlew, antelope, venison, bear, &c, &c, together with a great variety of other good things, can be had at any hour of the day, at the above establishment, on J street, a few doors east of the Humboldt." - Sacramento Transcript
In February of 1851, the profusion of wild game was again noted.
"Wild Game - An epicure can enjoy in San Francisco, at present, most of the luxuries of the best markets on the Atlantic coast, and in the item of wild game we exceed them all. Our market is full of fat geese, ducks, curlew and snipe, to say nothing of the enormous grizzlies and fat venison that are daily brought from the Contra Costa."
At this time, "great discoveries of golden treasure" were being made in the vicinity of the Klamath and Trinity rivers. An article noted that one year earlier, the region was "unknown," only inhabited by the Indian, or "the scarce less wild, bounding deer and antelope."
The take was endless, though the actual events were only occasionally reported, including this November, 1859 news item about snipe shooting in the vicinity of San Francisco Bay.
"Now that the season has set in when the English Jack snipe is in fit condition for delicious eating, we hear that a constant fusillade of shot guns is kept up in the march lands a few miles distant from the city. Our field sportsmen are reaping a splendid harvest at present and our markets show a plentiful supply of all kinds of game. Probably the best snipe ground to be found in the State is a few miles back of San Jose, where these birds, together with teal and mallard duck, hares, rabbits, curlew, quail and bittern, are said by those who have visited the spot to be found in abundance. A party of three persons from this city succeeded on Monday last, after a few hours; shooting, in bagging one hundred and fourteen English snipe, six teal ducks, several rabbits, and a few mallard ducks. They had two dogs with them, both of which were excellent retrievers. This is considered a remarkably good day's shooting; and a like result, no doubt, would well repay the most fastidious sportsman for the time occupied in hunting such feathered game."
Byy Game at the Market
The valuation of the birds can be readily compared for different years, especially from 1863 to 1880 for the central California markets. A variety is represented, include canvas-back, mallard, teal, geese (i.e., large geese, honkers, brant, white geese), sprigs (e.g., pintail), wigeon, snipe, quails most typically. Also curlew, plover, larks and doves as well as prairie chicken. The robin was available at one time.
Market prices were regularly reported in publications issued in California. Obvious examples considered included:
- - Retail Prices at Washington Market, as published in the "California Farmer and Journal of Useful Sciences"
- - San Francisco Market Review in the "Sacramento Daily Union" with this same newspaper continuing to present the details in columns titled "San Francisco Markets" and "San Francisco Produce Market" in the Sacramento Daily Record-Union, after two of the local papers combined.
- - The Daily Alta California of San Francisco also gave market prices in its "Domestic Produce" column.
- - San Francisco Market Review in the "Sacramento Daily Union" with this same newspaper continuing to present the details in columns titled "San Francisco Markets" and "San Francisco Produce Market" in the Sacramento Daily Record-Union, after two of the local papers combined.
A representative sample of columns from the available sources for the state were evaluated to derive details which convey particulars pertinent for local consumers as they purchased fowl of different sorts.
In October 1863 and 1865, ducks were prominently featured among the offerings:
Poultry - Game |
|
|
1863 |
1865 |
|
|
There was an ongoing demand for the meat available for game animals, and notably wild birds as they were regularly available in the local market, as reported. Issue after issue of the papers indicated their price in direct terms for the undiscriminating reader.
In July 1866, the hill country about San Francisco had plenty of game, where the "voice of the turtle dove is heard in the land," according to a note in the City Items column. The mourning doves were "abundant and fat." A report on July 22 noted: "Nearly everyone who could buy, borrow or find a gun, started for the country last night or early this morning, on a dove hunt." The reporter "trembled for the existence of the whole feathered race" based upon a party of steamboat men afield, with a "gallant Captain" at its head.
In the spring of 1867, O.P.F. Kallenbach and H.C. Brown ventured forth along the Calaveras River, near "Deoly's Ranch" in pursuit of wild game. In an article titled "Snipe Shooting" it was reported they took 65 snipe during on outing from about 11 a.m. to sunset. "Hunters receive about two dollars per dozen for snipe, while consumers who buy in the market pay three dollars," according to the Stockton Independent report, as reissued in the Sacramento Daily Union.
This example from February 1874 indicates game available during the winter season at the San Francisco market. The summary is especially interesting as it includes prairie chickens.
"Wild Game -- There is an abundance of all kinds, and prices are low and nominal. Hare, $2@2 50; Rabbits, $1 50; Quail, $1.75; Snipe $2 for English, and 75c@$1 for common; Prairie Chickens, $5; Larks, Doves, Plover and Curlew, 50@62 1/2c; Ducks, $1 25@2 for small and $2 50@3 for Mallard; Geese, $1 50@3 50 for small and $5@6 [per] dozen for Honkers; Elk, 8@10c; Antelope, 12 1/2@15c per lb." - Sacramento Daily Union
Game laws were eventually enacted to provide legal protection against continual slaughter whenever and at any time during the year. Game birds were prominently recognized and seasons were established where fowl were given legal protection from shootists. The change was noted in a mid-March report for the San Francisco market.
"Game -- The Game law will be enforced after the 15th instant. For several days arrivals have been very light, and the following quotations are almost nominal: Quail, $1@1 25; Ducks, $3 50@4 50 for Canvas Backs, $3@4 for Mallard, $1 50@2 for Sprigs, $1 25@1 50 for Teal and 87 1/2c@$1 for small kinds; Honkers, $3@3 50; Geese, $1 50@ 2 for Gray and $1@1 25 for White; Brant, $1@1 25; Hare, $1 50@2; Rabbits, $1@1 50; Snipe, $1 25 @1 75 for English and 50@75c for common; Robins, Plover, Curlew, Doves and Larks, 25@37 1/2c dozen." - March 13, 1879, Sacramento Daily Union
There is an interesting mix of ducks - including "sprigs" which were probably the Northern Pintail - and various sorts of geese. Honkers would most likely be the Canada Goose, the gray geese the Greater White-fronted Goose, the white goose probably Snow Goose and brant, well that name is self-explanatory.
Market Birds in Historic California
Reports for the California markets are an accurate indication for birds in the markets. Several publications conveyed reports of interest when considering the historic ornithology for the state.
Consider the following details, derived from the newspaper chronicles, and summarized for various sorts of wild fowl. Waterfowl are prominent in the historic record....
|
Year - Month |
Canvasback |
Mallard |
Northern Pintail |
Teal |
1863 - Oct |
@ 50 |
87 @ 1.00 |
- - |
doz. 2.50 |
1865 - Oct |
2.00@2.50 |
1.00 |
- - |
doz. 3.00 |
1867 - Feb |
- - |
$4 |
- - |
- - |
|
1868 - Oct |
- - |
50c |
- - |
- - |
|
1869 - Feb |
- - |
$1 per pair |
- - |
- - |
|
1874 - Feb |
- - |
2.50@3 |
- - |
- - |
|
1875 - Feb |
3.00@4.00 |
2.00@3.00 |
- - |
- - |
|
1876 - Oct |
- - |
4.00@4.50 |
- - |
- - |
|
1877 - Feb |
- - |
2.00@2.50 |
- - |
- - |
|
1877 - Oct |
- - |
2.50@4.00 |
- - |
1.50@2.00 |
|
1878 - Oct |
- - |
3.00@4.50 |
2.50@3.00 |
2.00@2.50 |
|
1879 - Mar |
3.50@4.50 |
3.00@4.00 |
1.50@2.00 |
1.25@1.50 |
|
1880 - Jan |
3.00@4.00 |
2.00@2.50 |
1.50@1.75 |
1.00@1.25 doz. |
Representative prices of different sorts of geese in coastal California market from 1863 to 1880 are summarized based upon a sample of market reports:
- 1863 - Oct: Goose, wild, @1.00
- 1867 - Feb: Goose, Wild - gray, $4 doz. - $1 lower
- 1868 - Oct: Geese, Wild - gray, 50c each
- 1869 - Feb: Geese, Wild (grey), per pair, 50c
- 1869 - Nov: Geese, $12@15
- 1870 - Oct: Geese, 3.00 doz.
- 1871 - Feb: Geese, 2@2.50
- 1874 - Feb: Geese, small, 1.50@3.50 for small
- 1874 - Feb: Geese, Honkers, 5@6 doz.
- 1875 - Feb: Geese, small, 1.00@1.50
- 1875 - Feb: Geese, large, 3.00@3.50
- 1875 - Feb: Geese, Honkers, 4.00@5.00 doz.
- 1877 - Feb: Geese, Honkers, 3.00@4.00 doz.
- 1877 - Feb: Geese, 1.00@2.50
- 1877 - Oct: Gray Geese, 1.50@2.00
- 1879 - Mar: Geese, gray, 1.50@1.25
- 1879 - Mar: Geese, white, 1.00@1.25
- 1879 - Mar: Geese, brant, 1.00@1.25
- 1879 - Mar: Geese, Honkers, 3.00@3.50
- 1880 - Jan: Gray Geese, 2.00@2.50
- 1880 - Jan: White Geese, 50@75 c
Notable for the earlier years is that geese were often just recognized as wild geese. In the latter period, though, there was an apparent effort to be distinctive according to obvious features of the species. Represented in the market during the years were the typical honker, or Canada Goose, the Brant, Snow Goose, and the Greater White-fronted Goose.
Other sorts of prominent birds could be bought at the market for one price or another.
Year - Month |
Common Snipe |
English Snipe |
Curlew |
Plover |
1865 - Oct |
- - |
doz. 3.00 |
- - |
- - |
1870 - Sep |
- - |
2.25@2.75 |
- - |
- - |
1870 - Oct |
50@75 |
1.50@2 |
75 c |
75 c |
1871 - Feb |
50@75 |
1.50@2.00 |
50@75 |
50@75 |
|
1874 - Feb |
2.00 |
75c@1.00 |
50@62 1/2 |
50@62 1/2 |
|
1875 - Feb |
- - |
2.00 |
37 1/2 @ 50 |
37 1/2 @ 50 |
|
1876 - Oct |
- - |
- - |
50@75 c doz. |
50@75 c doz. |
|
1877 - Feb |
50@75 c |
2.00@2.25 |
50@75 c |
50@75 c |
|
1877 - Oct |
75c@1.00 |
2.50@3.00 |
50@75 c doz. |
50@75 c doz. |
1879 - Mar |
50@75 |
1.25@1.75 |
25@37 1/2 c doz. |
25@37 1/2 c doz. |
1880 - Jan |
50@75 |
1.25@1.50 |
- - |
- - |
There were other sorts of birds which have a record based upon their being offered in the coastal markets.
Year - Month |
Doves |
Larks |
Quail |
1863 - Oct |
- - |
- - |
doz. 1.00@1.75 |
1865 - Oct |
- - |
- - |
doz. 1.75 |
1867 - Feb |
- - |
each, 50 c |
dead or alive, at $1 per dozen - 25c lower |
|
1868 - Oct |
- - |
- - |
dead or alive, 12 1/2c each |
|
1869 - Feb |
- - |
50@75 |
$1 25 |
|
1869 - Nov |
- - |
- - |
$1 25 |
|
1870 - Oct |
each, 50 c |
50@62 1/2 |
1.25@1.37 1/2 |
|
1871 - Feb |
50@75 |
37 1/2 @ 50 |
1.37 1/2 @1.50 |
|
1874 - Feb |
50@62 1/2 |
50@75 c doz. |
1.75 |
|
1875 - Feb |
37 1/2 @ 50 |
50@75 c |
1.25@1.50 |
|
1876 - Oct |
50@75 c doz. |
50@75 c doz. |
1.50@1.75 |
|
1877 - Feb |
50@75 c |
25@37 1/2 c doz. |
1.00@1.25 |
|
1877 - Oct |
50@75 c doz. |
at 50c per dozen |
1.50@2.00 |
|
1878 - Oct |
- - |
- - |
1.00@1.50 doz. |
1879 - Mar |
25@37 1/2 c doz. |
at 12 1/2c each |
1.00@1.25 |
1880 - Jan |
- - |
- - |
75@87 1/2 c |
These details prominently indicate availabilty and prices.
The particulars are for markets in one state during a particular span of years. Elsewhere in the unied states - predominantly in earlier years - other markets offered wild birds at a particular price.
A detailed comparison is an obvious consideration for the ornithology of the first years of the united states. Available newspaper accounts convey the particulars for a period many years before there was an ornithological journal. It is a sublime treat to read and appreciate the early accounts presented in their raw detail by so many newspapers where verbage was the essential of their effort.
|
Holiday Gourmands
Wild game was an obvious, special feature on holiday menus as prominently mentioned in the news conveyed to local residents
In 1878, a note in the Los Angeles Herald expressed a view of the holiday fare at a city eatery.
"We have no spite against the Central hotel, but when Fisher proposes a fine Christmas dinner, and we have another engagement, we feel mad. We know it will be a first-class affair, for we have seen turkeys, chickens and quails going into the Central (late Backman) for several days. The bill of fare comprises quail, chicken, turkey, canvass back duck, geese, capon, grouse, snipe, swan, partridge, mountain sheep, antelope, venison, cinnamon bear, elk, buffalo, rock bass, flounder, black bass, fresh cod, fresh salmon, black fish, new oranges, ripe grapes, fresh strawberries and ice cream."
A layout ad for the Pico House of Los Angeles, indicated their Christmas holiday for 1879. Three species of waterfowl were prominent menu items.