Addition to Cardinal Occurrence in Niobrara Valley of Cherry County

A singular sighting of a male Northern Cardinal is indicative of further occurrence at its western range along the Niobrara River valley of Cherry county.

On October 20, 2018 a male cardinal was seen flying across the river just south of the county road bridge along the South Eli Road. This may not seem to be significant, but it is a westernmost occurrence known of this species in the Niobrara valley.

In 2004, this species was observed at the Jim Gray Place situated at the Niobrara River at the Highway 61 crossing south of Merriman.

To the eastward it was recorded at Mogle Falls, about 12 miles distance. Other previous sightings dating originally to 2004 are known for three locations on the northern side of McKelvie National Forest, including Anderson Bridge WMA with multiple dates through 2017, Chat Canyon WMA through 2010 (a.k.a. Circle J Reserve as previously designated prior to its purchase by the State of Nebraska) and the Hand Exclosure on the northern edge of the forest. The cardinal is regularly seen near Valentine.

At the Niobrara Pasture locality, along the river south of Gordon in Sheridan county, there were no cardinal seen during the mid-2000s.

It is very likely that this species has been present at this locality for some time, but just not seen since no birders have visited the locality and recorded their observations.

Chronicles of the Central Niobrara River Valley in 1857

An ever-running river of water flowing easterly across central great plains country has been known and denoted by multiple generations familiar with its features and seasons. The rapidly running waters were personally known in many unknown ways as it has been everlasting amidst the land.

There is a minimal extent of history known about tribal legacy of decades long ago as there is a dearth of written chronicles during this era. There were prevalent populated villages representing natural cycles of moving around as associated with the seasons of every year. Indians walked or rode on hearty ponies across this land. They knew realities based upon shared or individual experiences within their tribe or band. There were years unknown of oral history among the resident tribes so many decades ago. The people present then lived amidst a country they knew so well and was a place of their life and where essentials of survival depended upon locally realized resources and knowledge of a multitude of seasons and neighbors of some interest or another. These people did not write about their lives and times in something like a book typical of latter years. Words vividly spoken or via actions individually expressed within a lodge or tepee on the evening during one or another gathering. This was the manner through which experiences were shared and perhaps remembered by another generation.

It was about 1830 when some French men associated with the American Fur Trade Company had gone westward and established a post along the river they identified as the L’Eau qui court. They had a primitive outpost near the confluence of a tributary river, the Wamdushka W. which had especially prominent falls nourished by waters flowing from a vast southerly land of sand dunes. The fur company men traded with local tribes that gathered beaver furs.

As the area became further known and designated as a territory of the U.S.A., government officials became especially active with legislation enacting legal treaties that would bring great changes upon the vast expanses of the central plains of the western frontier of an expanding nation. Military expeditions became a regular occurrence and undertaken for various purposes.

Following a government edict by legislation, in 1855 Lieutenant Gouverneur Kemble Warren - a topographic engineer of the U.S. Army and primary officer of the march - was leading the “Sioux Expedition” traversing “Dacota Country” as they went from the imposing Fort Randall on the Missouri river to Fort Kearny on the Platte river. This military officer travelled elsewhere on the northern plains during 1856.

A map of Nebraska and Dakota prepared in 1867 by Brevet Major General G.K. Warren of the U.S. Military later indicated prominent features of the region, including areas where tribes were resident, waterways and prominent landmarks as compiled from several surveys and reconnoissances done during many previous years. There was the “Niobrarah or L’Eau qui Court or Rapid River,” with the name Niobrara used by the Ponca. “Mini Tanka” or Big Water was a denoted attribution of the Dacotas. Also there was the “Wamdushka W.” or Snake river where the French traders had a fur trading post. This river was also known by the Omaha tribe as “Cici ka wabahi i te. Where they gathered turkeys. Many turkeys were found here starved to death, and the men gathered them to pluck the feathers to feather their arrows,” (27th annual report of the American Bureau of Ethnology, page 94), There was also the “Little Rapid R.” as primarily indicated.

Along the western extent of the L'Eau qui court a military map indicated the prominent tribe was the "Sichangu or Brule Dakotas" whose country extended into Dakota during this era.

A particular reconnaissance of the L Eau qui court was the 1857 Warren expedition that had started in July, originating at Omaha City on the Missouri river. The necessaries were gathered together from other places using steamboats bringing supplies along this river-based route of commerce. There were associative details taken care of at St. Louis as well as Fort Leavenworth in northeast Kansas. The assignment of the military force was to evaluate the best route for a commercial business or transport travel road from Sioux City to the eastern front of the Rocky Mountains. Details also needed to be known regarding a suitable route to the Black Hills. The character of the Loup Fork and Niobrara were to also be determined. There was $25,000 allocated by the U.S. government to pay expeditionary expenses.

Essential to the details of the expedition's route are hand-drawn maps giving details of its route to Columbus City, then westward along the Loup Fork through the interior of the Sandhills, amidst the sand dunes with various sorts of lakes to eventually reach the Niobrara river. There was more travel that occurred in the autumn as the expedition made their way eastward in close distance to the river valley. The original renditions were drawn by topographic engineers that were government employees. For nearly every portion of the Niobrara traversed, there is a cartographic sketch indicating prominent land features and places where the expedition camped.

According to detailed words written on the range, a western extent of L'Eau qui court was a point of occurrence in latter August. The expedition then went westward to Laramie, also visiting Laramie Peak during the time spent in the Wyoming territory. Upon departure to return eastward in September, one party went eastward towards the Niobrara valley country while Lieut. Warren and others went into southern Dakota territory to undertake investigations.

Details in hand-written journals kept by two notable military men depict regular activities and occurrences amidst a western frontier, as made by the nearly daily entries kept by J. Hudson Snowden, as well as additional notes by Edgar Warren.

On September 22, 1857 a portion of the expedition was prominently along the L'Eau qui Court river in northern Nebraska territory.

Snowden wrote in his hand-written journal: “Tuesday Sept 22d 6 am ther[mometer] 42^o – wind NW 2 clear. Started at 7 1/2 o’clock. Kept clear to the bluffs following the road there very good over high prairie mesa. Came into the river camped in good grass & a few cottonwood trees furnished fuel, opposite the point where we first struck L Eau qui court R on our way to Laramie. Saw today two buffalo bulls some distance down the river, and four Brules who came into our camp from below & who are on their way up the river say that there are a great many buffalo travelling north toward L’eau qui court R. I might mention here that from this point to as high up as the place where the Fort Pierre road crosses the river, the bluffs on either side are of soft rock more broken and denuded as you ascent, those on the south side as a general thing are close to the stream, while on the north the hills lie farther back a high mesa or table land extending to near the stream leaving narrow bottom which is the only place you find good grass, and here it is very fine and is interrupted with many rushes of which the animals are exceedingly fond. There is no river along this portion of L Eau qui court with the exception of what is in the hills about 35 miles back from the point the drift from which in the vicinity of and below the hills furnishes scanty fuel hardly sufficient for cooking purposes.”

Snowden: “Wednesday Sept 23d 5 1/2 am ther 40^o. Wind SE & clear. We started at 7 1/4 o’clock. After proceeding about three miles we came to the Indian lodge trail here the Indians who are travelling and as, wanted us to cross the river. We determined to remain on this side however the bluffs on each side of the stream being very steep & broken and the bed quicksandy. In two miles further having crossed two bad ravines we got into the sand hills, the same formation as those on Loup Fork. We wound our way through these hills for nearly thirteen miles where we camp out upon a high hard mesa. We descended into the bottom of the river and camped in good grass and sufficient wood. The lodge trail recrosses the river to the side a little above our camp. Above the mouth of a small creek putting in from the South side, which has very steep & broken bluff banks. The river along our route to day varies in width from 50 to 60 yds and runs between high steep and broken hill with very little bottom, in which cottonwood ash cherry trees grow to some extent and with many grape vines hanging in rich festoons over the branches. The cherry & grape are now ripe, but the latter are very acid. Sand hill on the north side run in close to the river while on the south is one high level plain only broken by the small creek which enters above our camp.

“The Indians who are with us say they will return tomorrow morning as there is now no danger of our horses being stolen. They say we will find the road god for four or five day and there to the Missouri it is very bad. We camped at 1 1/2 o’clock. 8 pm ther 52^o – no clouds – wind SW 1. Wind west all the time we were travelling and hard. Warm during the middle of the day.”

The tributary waterway coming in from the south was Deer Creek, as it is currently designated.

Snowden: “Thursday Sept 24th. Ther 44^o. Wind SW 1 clear. 6 1/2 am ther 50^o – wind SW 2. Having given our Indian friends provisions enough to last them home & taking leave of them, we started at 8 o’clock. Standing Elk accompanied us a few miles before he started back. He told us he knew the country through which we were travelling, belonged to the Great Father but that the game, grass, wood etc. all was the property to the Brule Indians and if we had any powder & balls to spare he would be very thankful for it.

“In about a mile after leaving camp we came into the Indian trail. One quarter or mile more we came to a small creek to the left, up the valley of which I could see for a long distance no wood infill but grass however appears very good in the valley. The divide between the L Eau qui court and the stream here is only a few hundred yards, the tributary makes a bend & runs parallel to the river for about three miles before it enters. We crossed near the mouth where there was water running through the rushes & high grass. After ascending a steep and high hill road passed over rolling hills for about 8 1/2 miles, the rest of the way over level plain. We camped on bottom of river in good grass. Sand hills were visible all day to the north of the road. The river yesterday was inclosed between high steep banks, the ravines filled some with pine not however in sufficient quantity to be of any importance. Considerable growth of ash cottonwood ash & grape vines plum & cherry bushes flourish on the bottom, these for the last few days have been betraying the presence of the approach of autumn, the foliage partaking of all the varied tints which blended together give the bottom of the river as you look down upon it from the high bluff banks a most beautiful & rich appearance. Two lodges of Brules are camped below us on the opposite side of the River. They came into our camp in the afternoon, to sell fresh meat. They killed a buffalo. They confirm the report of the others are met; that the Buffalo were travelling north. River yesterday & to day filled with sand bars shallow & here is 50 yds wide. 2 pm ther 81^o NW 2. A few cum clouds in SE.

“9 pm ther 46^o clear – no wind.

“Made 9 3/4 miles."

The waterway flowing in from the northwest, and which a route map indicated was designated as Omaha creek. This waterway is now known as Rush Creek on a modern era map at its place northward north of Deer Creek in Sheridan county.

Snowden: “Friday Sept 25th

"5 am ther 42^o. No clouds. Wind SE 1.

"7 am ther 50 no clouds. Wind SE 1.

“Started at 7:45 am. We made a circuit of three miles to head two ravines, thence for five miles we passed over rolling hills where we crossed another ravine with ease, and followed along the river over level mesa, crossing another raving in about three miles after which we came to a small creek with clear running water, four feet wide. Very little bottom in which the grass was pretty good. The bluffs along the L’eau qui court are similar to those mentioned yesterday & wood in the valley increased in quantity as we descend. Some pine in ravines. The grass however is not so good or in as great quantity. I saw indications of Beaver on the bottom. Back from the river the bluffs are sandy. We saw today a great many antelope. Two were killed. Before reaching camp one of the soldiers having killed an antelope one of the herders went to assist him in bringing it into camp. This mule getting restless at the train leaving our presence broke away from him and went back on the road which we came, the man followed him until dark, but being unable to catch him he returned.

“2 pm, ther 87^o, wind SW 5

“9 pm, ther 72^o, wind SW 4 blew hard from the south west all day.

"Made 13 8/10 miles."

Snowden: “Saturday Sept 26th.

5 am ther 39^o. Wind NW 4. Cum stratus & cirrus close 3.

2 pm ther 71^o cum st & cir 3 wind NE 1.

9 pm ther 43^o cum str in NW & N 2. No wind.

“We remained in camp to let the man go back and hunt his mule. He found it at the Indian camp about 12 miles above where he was tied. He got everything except a Colts pistol which the Indians said was not in the holster when they found the mule. I took advantage of our delay here to examine the little creek on which we are camped. Dr. Moffett & myself rode up it about eight miles. The running water gives out in four miles. After which we found it in holes. The wood extends about three miles only a few large trees. The lower part the stream runs between high cut banks, but above a wide valley spreads out. The slopes of the hills are gradual, and the grass in the valley is very good. On the east side of the creek several cone shaped hills rise out of the high plains. Some also in the shape of pyramids, capped with white rock. The valley of the creek was filled with bands of antelope and the water holes covered with flocks of small teal ducks. From the hills the country on the south side of L’eau qui court appears level & free from sand.”

In recognition to the herds comprised of many of these animals, this place was designated as Antelope creek, a name which it continues to retain. The government map also included the name "Stinking Hand C." along with another notation that could not be deciphered.

Snowden: “Sunday 27th 1857.

"5 am ther 43 1/2^o. Wind SW 1 cum stratus from N by E SE 4.

"7 am ther 45 1/2 wind and clouds same.

"9 pm ther 48^o no wind. Cum str & cirrus all over the heavens. Wind all first part day from the west changed to NE in the evening.

"Started at 8 o’clock for four miles the road was very good when we came to a small creek four feet wide, 18” deep clear running water the approach to which was very steep. After crossing this the trail passed under the bluffs along the river for two miles. Crossing on this space very steep and deep ravines, and there passes up very steep hill to regain the ‘mesa.’ I could see no way to avoid this place by going around. The last seven miles the road was good somewhat sandy, hills on our left being of that formation all the latter part of the days journey. We camped at 2 1/2 pm on the bank of the river some 200 feet above the water in poor grass & little wood on the banks of the stream. River to day runs between high walls of soft rock in all most. Canons narrows very much, is very crooked, and the current is very swift. One of the men tells me he travelled from the mouth of the Snake River to point near where we camped last night on south side of river. He was with some of the American Fur Co’s. traders, and they travelled with carts. He says the road on that side of the river is very good and it appears so from this, and yet the main lodge trail is on this. It would be impossible to cross the river however with wagons.

“Large flocks of cranes passed over our camp this evening travelling south. Made 12 1/2 miles."

Another stream entering flowing from the north discovered soon after leaving camp in the morning, seems to be Hay Creek of modern denotion.

Snowden: Sept 28th Monday. 5 am. ther 42^o, wind NE, cum str clds 9 light around the horizon. Started at 7 1/2 o’clock. After travelling about one & half mile the river which make a bend to the north cuts into the sand hills on this and forced us into this hills through which we had a very tortuous and fatiguing march and was bad if not worse than any of our sand hill experience.

“Camped at 2 1/4 o’clock on slope of a sand hill near the river in poor long course grass peculiar to sandy regions affording very little nutriment to animals. Wood plenty in bottom but hard to procure being unable to get down into the bottom with the wagons.

“River in vicinity of camp not quite so tortuous and the channel is wider and is about 2 1/2 to 3 ft deep and filled with sand bars. All day the bluffs run in close and from the bed of the stream for 100 feet are composed of soft white chalk rock, and on this side sand overlying this to the depth of 75 to 100 feet near the river. The pine in & the ravines increases in quantity. Wood on bottom as usual. No game was seen on our route to day. 9 pm ther 46, wind NW 1, cum str clds SE 1. Cum str cir scattered over heaven all day wind SW 1. Wind changed a good deal during the evening.

Snowden: “Tuesday Sept 29th.

"5 am ther 33^o, wind NE 2. Cir stratus clouds in the south & SW 1.

"2 pm ther 68^o, wind SE 3. Cir str, cumulus & cir cum scattered over the heavens. Cum in South. Wind was east about 12 o’clock.

"9 pm ther 55. No clouds. Wind SE 1.

“Remained in camp all day and sent two men ahead to roam the river to look for a camping place. They returned in the evening and reported having found a very good place about 3 & half miles below where a creek comes in from this side. They killed a buffalo bull some of meat of which they tonight.”

Snowden: “Wednesday Sept 30th Ther 5 am 41^o, wind SW 4, no clouds. Started at 8 o’clock and travelled through sand hills for 3 miles when we came to a small creek which I think is Maca sca Wakpa, or White Earth Cr. it answering to the description the Indians gave of a creek of that name following road thus far for two miles. We camped on the L Eau qui court about half a mile above the mouth of the creek in a little bottom shut in by hills with good grass and plenty of wood for fuel. Road to day was sandy and heavy.

“9 pm ther 60^o. Wind N 1. Cum str 10 passing to south. Wind N & NW all day at times quite hard. Made to day 5 1/3 miles."

The military map of the era labels the waterway as “Clay Creek.” Two weeks – from September 30th to October 13th - were spent at this camp at this tributary where it met with the running water river. In modern parlance it is designated as Leander creek, apparently named after a homesteader of later years, according to place name history.

Snowden: “Thursday Oct 1st

"7 am ther 58^o. Wind NW 1. Cirrus clds 1

“2 pm ther 73^o. Wind NW 1. No clouds.

“9 pm ther 41^o no wind, few cir str clds in S.

“This being about the point where Lieut. Warren said he would join us we determined to remain here as least as long as the grass hold out. I went down to the small creek (Maca seu W) which is about 6 or 7 feet wide with clear running water 18 in to 2 feet deep. Hills close up to the stream on both sides. Ravines filled with small pine, in the bottom along the banks are trees similar to those that fringe the L’eau qui court, also an immense quantities of plum bushes with fruit now ripe and grapes in profusion. Many signs of elk in the vicinity and several were seen.”

Snowden: “Friday Oct 2d 1857.

"6 am ther 39^o. Wind NW 1. Cum str & cir str 9

“8 am ther 59^o. Wind SSW 3. Cum str & cir str 9

"2 pm ther 66^o. Wind SW 4. Cum str 10

"9 pm ther 56^o. Wind N1. Nimbus clds & raining commenced at dark.

"Found this morning two mules gone. Several men were sent in search of them but had not succeeded in finding them. They were most probably taken by the Indians as they were picketed near the mouth of a ravine and further out than the rest.”

Snowden: “Saturday Oct 3d

“8 am ther 67^o. No wind. Raining slightly. Numbus clouds W. Rained all night, at times quite hard.

“2 pm ther 53^o. Nimbus clouds W raining. Wind NE 1

“9 pm ther 49^o. Wind NE 7. Nimbus clds 10. Misting rain.

“Rained slightly all the evening with wind in same direction.

“Rain prevented any search being made after the missing mules. There is some red cedar on the hill near our camp, but only a few trees. Some huge cottonwoods grow along the banks of the river and a few pine in the ravines. The river here is about fifty yards wide with swift current and hills run in close as above leaving here & there a small valley similar to the one in which we are camped.”

Snowden” Sunday Oct 4th

"9 am ther 53^o. Nimbus clds 10. Misty rain falling. Wind NE 1. Rained at times slightly during the night.

“2 pm ther 57^o. Wind NE 2. Cum str clds 10. No rain. Wind N at times during the morning.

"9 pm ther 56^o. Nimbus clds 10. Drizzling rain. Wind NE 1.

"The sergeant of the escort with one man went in search of the missing mules. They went back on the trail some distance but their search was fruitless.”

Snowden: “Monday Oct 5th

"7 am ther 52^o. Nimbus clouds 10; misty rain falling. Wind NE 1.

"3 pm ther 57^o. Cum str clds 10 no wind.

"9 pm ther 54. Cum str clds 10. Wind S 1 changes about 7 1/2 pm.

“Since we arrived at this camp the men have been luxuriating in plums & grapes the camp being full of the fruit all the time and it has had a very beneficial effect on checking the scurvy which began to show itself amongst the soldiers. I might mention here that the situation of our camp is such, being hemmed in by hills on all sides, that the wind is not felt unless it blows very hard and it might blow a hurricane over the hill & still be comparatively calm here consequently the direction & force of the wind, given at the head of each day does not give the actual force and probably true direction of many of the camp.”

Snowden: “Tuesday Oct 6th

7 am. ther 53^o. Wind S 3. Cum Str 10.

9 pm ther 58^o. Cum str clds & Cum 9 passing very rapidly to the north. The moon & stars shining brightly during the intervals of the clouds. Wind S 5. Same direction all day.

“I started this morning in company with Dr. Moffett and crossed the river and travelled south thinking I might find Snake river. Shortly after leaving the river we entered into sand hills of the most dismal character increasing in size and barrenness as we advanced & after travelling eight miles I could see from a high ridge 6 or 7 miles beyond, nothing however but sand presented itself to view. I saw several bands of antelope & one buffalo bull who was making the best of his way to the south frightened at our approach.

“On returning we struck the river some six or seven miles below our camp. It is here spread out about 200 miles wide quicksandy sinking if you stop a moment in one place. Along the river is a thick growth of underbrush peculiar to wet bottoms, and a few large scattering cottonwood trees. We crossed and followed up the bottom valley which is narrow & low filled with springs and in many places boggy, a species of came some fifteen feet high and very thick grow in places. White & red willow grow in great profusion in the wet places while the rose & plum & cherry bushes chose higher ground. While riding up the valley horses sank in one of these bogs and it was with difficulty we extricated them.

“Grass along the river is nearly all dead as are the rushes. There is considerable quantity of long coarse grass but the animals do not touch it. Saw a small band of buffalo north of the river on the plain.”

Modern era topography shows that the river valley eastward of the camp widens to the extent that lowland bottoms are present adjacent to the river channel, and which is a different aspect to the more constricted valley to the west and also eastward. This section of the river would be southwest of the modern geographic place, the Connely Flat.

Snowden: “Wednesday Oct 7th

"8 am ther 60^o. Cum stratus and cum clouds 10. Wind South 6 blew hard all night.

“2 pm ther 69^o. Cum & Cir clds 7 passing to N. Wind S 5.

“9 pm ther 54^o. Wind NW 1. No clouds. Wind from S ceased about sunset.”

Snowden: “Thursday Oct 8th

"8 am ther 58^o. Cum str clds 10. Dropping rain. Wind S 3.

"2 pm ther 62^o. Cum str clds 10 wind S 1.

"9 pm ther 59^o. Wind N 1. Cum st clouds 10. Storm from S & SE came up with thunder & lightning about 5 pm and another from NW; rained for a few minutes. Wind changed at same time to north.”

Snowden: “Friday Oct 9th

"8 am 56^o, wind NW 1. Cum str clds 8. A few cir stratus in NE & E.

"2 pm ther 55^o. Nimbus clouds 1. Raining quite hard. Wind NE 2.

“9 pm ther 48^o. Nimbus clouds 10. Raining hard. Wind North 5. Commenced raining with thunder & lightning about 5 1/2 pm and continued without interval. Forked lightning principally in NW.”

Snowden: “Saturday Oct 10th

"7 am. ther 48^o. Nimbus clouds 10. Raining hard with wind NW; as it did all night with exception of small intervals.

“2 pm. ther 45^o. Nimbus clouds 10. Raining at intervals wind NW 5. 9 pm there 44. Cum str clds 10. Wind north 2. Rain ceased at sunset.

“12 pm ther 64^o, cum str & cum 7. Wind sw 1. 2 pm. Ther 62o cum & cum str 9. Wind Sw 5.

"9 pm ther 46^o nimbus clouds 10. Few drops of rain now & then. Wind north 4. It changed about 3 or 4 o clock.

“About 2 pm twenty-two Brule Indians crossed the river and charged into the camp and their bows strung & arrows in their hands. They said they left Snake River this morning, where they left their village & chief “White Black Bird” who was on his death bed, and who sent his paper, given by Gen. Harney by one of these present, who was leading the party. They said one of their young men who was out hunting had seen us on our road and supposing we were French traders they were going to take all our property away from us. They were very indignant at our going through their country and wanted us to pay for the privilege of passing. They said we were eating all their plums & wild fruit and burning there wood. That our horses were eating & destroying all the grass along the river. That we were killing & scaring away all the game. That they met the buffalo & antelope flying from our approach 100 miles before they reached us. That Gen. Harney had assured them that no white men would come into their country without a license from him, and had told them to stop & rob any one who came into their domain with such a passport. We had some difficulty to make them leave camp at dark, and we had to threaten to fire on them before they would leave; they camped near us.”

Snowden: “Monday Oct 12th

7 am ther 42o. Wind NW 2. Cir stratus clouds 3 in E & SE. Cirrus elsewhere. Rained hard about 11 or 12 o'clock and after at intervals.

“2 pm ther 54^o. Wind SW 1. Cum & cir cum clouds in S & SW 1.

"9 pm ther 35 no clouds or wind.

“The Indians left early this morning all of them separating going in different directions saying that they were going to join Little Thunder when their village moves over from Snake river. Having exhausted nearly all the grass in the vicinity of our camp we determined to move further down the river and in the evening Lt. McMillan took some of the men with picks & spades to make a crossing to White Earth Cr. and improve the hill on opposite side to this latter however very little could be done.”

Snowden: “Thursday Oct 13th

6 1/4 am ther 34^o. Wind S 2. No clouds. Heavy frost in the ground.

7 am ther 40^o wind & clouds same as last.

“We struck our tents and were on the road by 7 1/2 am. We crossed White Earth Creek without any difficulty at the hill on the opposite side we had considerable trouble having to double the teams and partially unload some of the wagons & considered ourselves fortunate that we did not have to unload all and carry up the contents. Having reached the top of this hill, we passed through sand hills for half a mile, when we came upon one of those level plains, which always indicated the approach to a tributary to L’eau qui court. These plains lying between the forks appear to have had all the drift sand removed by some cause leaving the surface perfectly flat over which the travelling is very good. While on other side of the branch and opposite side of L’eau qui court the sand hills come in close to the streams. On arriving within 1 1/2 miles of confluence of the stream, and finding no place to camp (the hills closing in here having no valley whatever) we retraced our steps some distance and camped on L’eau qui court on a bottom about two miles long and varying from 1/4 to 1/3 of a mile wide. The grass here is only tolerable, but wood in abundance for fuel. The river is comparatively straight for some distance, about 100 yds wide filled with sand bars & shallow below our camp it narrows very much to not more than 15 to twenty yds wide is very crooked & rushes along between high walls of soft rock. After receiving the waters of the creek which I think is Little Rapid R. It turns to south east & pursues a course as far as I could see. All the ravines in the vicinity contain cedar & little pine and nearly all of them fine springs of clear cold water sending out in places good size brooks to swell the waters of L’eau qui court. 9 pm ther 45. No clouds or wind. Clear all day and quite warm during the middle part. Light wind from SW. (22 miles from last camp.)”

Edgar Warren: “To day we travelled about 26 miles our road for the first part was much the same as yesterday but after travelling a short distance it became quite level I saw quite a good many antelopes to day. After travelling over this level prairie we finally came to some small hills these we passed over and then our road became somewhat level again we then came down into the valley of the L Eau qui court our road was very level. We soon came upon the trail which our wagon’s had made. We followed this and finally came to camp upon the L Eau qui court. The grass here is very good and there is some wood here.”

Snowden: “Wednesday Oct 14th.

8 am ther 54. No clouds or wind.

2 pm ther 45^o nimbus clds 10. Raining. Wind north 3. Commenced clouding up about 9 o’clock, at same time wind arose from N. Commenced raining about 7 o’clock.

“9 pm ther 38^o. Cum str clds 10. No wind. Commenced hailing about 6 o’clock pm which changed into rain and stopped in about an hour.”

E. Warren: “October 14th. To day we travelled about 25 miles our road was not very good. We travelled most of the time on the wagon trail. There was but a little timber on the L Eau qui court. We are camped upon the L Eau qui court. The grass here is quite good but somewhat dry and there is a little timber here.”

Snowden: “Thursday Oct 15 6 1/2 am ther 32^o. Wind NW 3. No clouds. Hailed & rained about 12 or 1 o clock in the night & wind blew very hard from NE.

“About 10 o’clock this morning we were surprised by hearing a shot & whoop on the hills, shortly after which men of the Black Hill party accompanied by an Indian rode into the camp. He said Mr. Warren & party were close behind and in a few minutes they came defiling down the hill, their long string of pack mules and the motley groups of men presenting quite a fantastical appearance. After the shaking of hands & congratulations were over, the rest of the day was spent in relating the different incidents & adventures which had happened to each since our separation at Laramie.”

E. Warren: October 15th. To day we travelled about 12 miles our road for the first few miles was quite bad but after this is was over a high level prairie. We travelled mostly upon the trail made by the wagon’s once we went into a ravine and then crossed a river supposed to be little rapid river. To day we came up to were [=where] the rest of our party was upon the L Eau qui court and camped there.
“The grass here is quite good and there is some timber around here.”

E. Warren: “October the 16th. To day we remain here still.”

Snowden: Oct 16th 17th 18th. We remained in camp making preparations to start, reorganizing the party, etc. dividing provisions, also discharging some of the men who wished to return to Laramie only having been hired for the Black Hill trip. 16th we remained in camp all day.

“It clouded up & commenced raining in the evening and in the morning of the 17th we found it snowing hard & kept it up all day, although it melted as fast as it fell ... on morning of the 18th found about four inches of snow which had fallen during the night, and weather was cold. I did not take any more observations on the weather after the Black Hill party joined us, because Mr. Carrington is taking full meteorological notes.”

E. Warren: “October 17. To day we remain here still it snowed all day to day.”

E. Warren: “Sunday October 18th. To day we remain here still.”

Snowden: “Monday Oct 19th 1857 Started this morning at 9 1/4 am after taking leave of [word n.l.] etc who returned to Laramie and ground was had frozen. Ther being 22o at 7 am. We reached Little Rapid River in one & half miles. The descent to the stream was very steep but we reached the bottom & crossed without much difficulty. The creek is 3 yards wide two feet deep crooked & contained within high steep hills. Pine & cedar in the bluffs while a few elm cottonwood & cherry bushes fringe the banks. The water has a reddish tinge similar to rain water or as if impregnated rust oxide of iron. After leaving this road was tolerably good following valleys between sand hills which were [word n.l.] more thickly with grass and not cut much by winds.

“We were not in sight of the river all day until we camped on bluff bank between two ravines filled with pine. River here flows between high steep banks and is about 40 yds wide. The snow all disappears to day except on shady side of the hills. Made 16 1/2 miles.”

E. Warren: “October 19th. To day we travelled 16 1/2 miles when we first started we left the valley of the L Eau qui court and came upon a high level prairie after travelling over this for a little while we came to a ravine after working the road here some we crossed over this ravine. There was a river a running through the bottom of it. Our road after crossing this ravine was not very good except in a few places. When our road was in a small valley our on ridges when it would be quite level for a short distance we are camped upon the brow of the L Eau qui court’s bluffs. The grass in the bottom land is quite good. There is some timber along on the bluffs and some cotton wood along the river.”

The map issued by the government labeled the tributary coming in from the northwest was labelled as "Reunion C." in obvious reference to the two groups of the expedition becoming a singular force a bit of a distance westward of a waterway confluence and what is now known as Connely Flat of the modern era. This locality was obviously in the vicinity - based upon geography and topography - of what became known as Bear creek, the name recognizing a place where Sioux hunters had killed bears, and along a stream within a canyon northward of the running water river. These was probably a plains grizzly bear that found the valley to be haven of some sort. Bear in the Lakota language is “mato” as a noun, or matohota in reference to the grizzly bear, with particular inflections according to the Lakota dictionary done by general editor “Joseph S. Karol.” The name first appeared in association with a survey done by the General Land Office.

In subsequent days the party would traverse the north side of the L'Eau qui court river, northward of a land feature that would eventually be named Medicine creek. The name of this waterway is derived from Indian language that refers to the medicinal plants present along the creek banks, and which were apparently collected for tribal use. The tribal name was Maca seu w. The w refers to wakpa, or river in tribal language. The expedition route upon departure would go northward to a route that provided level ground which the mules and wagons could more easily traverse.

Snowden: “Tuesday Oct 20th. We started at 9 am and had to make a considerable detour to head some ravines which ran out a long distance into the prairie. Passing over low rolling ground we came into the river in the afternoon down a divide between two ravines, & filled with pine for two miles. Some grass in beds of the ravines & also fine springs. Soil along our route today seems better having thicker darker mould, and sustaining a better growth of grass. Sand hills far to north show their white summits. Our camp is about 100 ft above the level of the river. Timber in the distance on south side gives the appearance of a tributary, probably Snake R. We were not in sight of the stream during the day. Pine is increasing in quantity & size as we descend but wood in the bottom diminishes here in quantity. Made today 18 miles.”

E. Warren: “October 20th. To day we travelled 17 8/10 miles Our road was quite good except in some places where it was over some small hills our road was made some longer by our having to go around large gulleys all along on the brow of the L Eau qui court. Bluffs there was some pine timber. We are camped upon the brow of the L Eau qui court's bluffs. The grass in the bottom land is quite good and there is a little timber along the river.”

This was in the vicinity of the current McCann canyon with its distinctive creek flowing southerly on the north side of the L Eau qui court. Note that the expedition had to revert northerly several miles to the upland in order to avoid the ravines that would have nearly impossible to traverse with loaded wagons.

Snowden: “Wednesday Oct 21st Rained during the entire day. At same time turns quite warm and SE wind blowing. On account of the rain we remained in camp. One of the soldiers who went hunting yesterday and got lost came into camp 2 o’clock pm.”

E. Warren: “October 21st. To day we remain here still one of the soldier’s did not get quite into camp last night but came in to day. It rained some last night and some to day.”

Snowden: “Thursday Oct 22d Cloudy this morning with appearance of rain & quite chilly. Starting at 9 1/2 am we travelled over good hard ground for about eight miles in NNE direction to avoid crossing ravines, when we came into small heavy sand hills, we passed through these in SE direction and did not emerge from them until we found ourselves close upon the river. Here we camped on small bottom hemmed in by hills in pretty good grass and a few large ash trees growing near the bluffs furnished fuel. The river here spreads out and contains many little low grassy islands. The pine is not very abundant in this vicinity and not as large as that left behind. Mr Engel made the survey of the river today. He found it very crooked, in many places filled with numerous grassy island with very rapid current. Hills on each side steep & broken and he found it difficult to follow the bottom with his horse. Snake river adds its water to L’eau qui court 8 miles back. This stream is 30 yds wide at its mouth with high steep bluffs on either side & is well timbered with pines. Our days travel was 18 1/3 miles.”

E. Warren: October 22nd. To day we travelled 18 3 /4 miles. Our road was quite good in some places where it was quite level and in some other places it was quite rough being over sand hills along on the brow of the banks of L Eau qui court there was some pine timber. We are camped in the valley of the L Eau qui court the grass here is very good and there is some timber close to camp and there was some timber along the river.”

The night's camp would was on the north side of the Niobrarah river across from the confluence of the waterway that would, later in history, become known as Gordon creek.

Snowden: “Friday Oct 23d. Dr. Hayden came into camp this morning. He & one of the men got lost yesterday. They got separated in the night and the man is still missing. We started at 9 am and travelled through sand-hills in northerly direction for six miles when we came to a creek in a valley about 1/3 to 1/2 mile wide inclosed between soft rocky bluffs. The creek is about twenty feet wide & half feet deep. Rapid current & very crooked. A tree here & there along the banks. Crossing and ascending the bluffs on north side we came upon a high level plain. The monotony of which was only broken by a small rocky hill occasionally rising out of it and by ravines running to SE. Pursuing this in northerly direction for 7 miles further we turned to SE and in 6 miles came to L Eau qui court, which here cuts its way through perpendicular walls of soft rock about 200 feet high. The river to day for the first few miles is filled with large islands their running in a very narrow channel inclosed between steep & broken hills. Pine in considerable quantities on south side, but none on north before reaching the mouth of the small river which is 1 1/2 miles back from our camp.

“The man who was lost with Dr. Hayden arrived in camp shortly after we camped. We made to day 19 1/2 miles.”

E. Warren: “October 23d. To day we travelled 19 65/100 miles. Our road was quite bad until we cross a creek it being mostly over sand hills after we crossed this creek. Our road was very good being over a high level prairie. I saw some few buffalo bulls to day. Two of our party did not get in to camp last night. One of them came in quite early this morning and the other one came in shortly after we had camped. There was some pine timber upon the brow of the bluff of the L Eau qui court. We are camped upon the brow of the bluffs of this river. The grass down by the river was quite good and there is considerable timber here and there is some timber along the river.”

They had reached and crossed the waterway known as the “Mini-Chadusa W or Rapid Creek” on October 23rd, according to the military map of the area. Mini-chadusa has an indicated English rendition of rapid creek or little rapid river. The current, modern name of Minnechaduza Creek is an alteration with a different spelling and as no longer hyphenated. The night's camp would have been eastward of the confluence in the vicinity of the what is now known as Big Beaver creek, with its lower extent within the Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge. A second spring just to its east was also indicated.

Snowden: Saturday Oct 24th. Started at 7:45 a.m. Travelled back on our trail two & half miles and in 1/2 mile more we crossed a ravine where we found water hole and pretty good grass. If we had discovered this level last evening and camped here we would have saved 2 1/2 yesterday and as much today. After this our course was a little south of east all day, over fine country for travelling. Dark soil, and grass more abundant than usual. Ravines along to the south of us running into the winter filled with pine and are very steep & broken. [word n.l.] through the ravine in every direction. Our route was very straight, and we camped on head of ravine finding there good grass in the bottom. Wood & water in springs. We passed 7 lodges of Yankton Sioux 7 miles back. Made today 24 1/2 miles.”

E. Warren: “October 24th. To day we travelled 24 4/10 miles our road was quite rough in some places it being over rolling hills and in small valleys. We crossed one creek to day. There was some timber along on the bluffs of the L Eau qui court. We are camped upon a bluff and there is a ravine by the side of it which has water in it. The grass here is quite good and there is some timber here.”

The camp for a couple of days was along the valley in a place southerly which is now southerly of Norden, Keya Paha county, Nebraska.

Snowden: Sunday Oct 25th Lay in camp to rest the animals and await the arrival of Mr. Engel & Dr. Hayden who followed the river yesterday and did not get in last night. They came in about 9 o’clock. These ravines near our camp are filled with scrub oak, ash, a few elm, plum & cherry bushes in the beds, while their sides are covered with pine. Near the mouth you find some black walnut. Our camp is about three miles distant from the river.”

E. Warren: “Sunday October 25th. To day we remain here still.”

Snowden: “Monday Oct 26th Started at 9 o’clock and travelled over rolling prairie and occasionally crossing depressions at heads of ravines and a small brook with running water 2 1/2 to 3 ft wide and 18 in deep (this was 11 1/2 miles from camp). In 15 miles we came upon a high table land perfectly level upon which we travelled for 6 1/2 miles when we turned to south toward the river, following a ridge with ravine on either side and camped on hill above one of these ravines about two miles from the river. The ravines along to the south of our route are similar to those mentioned in last days travel being broken & filled with pine. Grass was poor and the hill were covered gravel & course sand.”

E. Warren: “October 26th. To day we travelled 22 1 /2 miles. Our road was not very good. Part of the time it being over small rolling hills and in small valleys and part of the time it was very good it being over a high level prairie. There was some timber along on the bluffs of the L Eau qui court. We are camped upon the brow of the bluffs of the L Eau qui court. The grass here is quite good and there is some timber here and there is some timber along the river.”

The location indicated by the military map – later issued – was on the east side of the ravine which is now known currently as Jewett Creek, which is southwest of Springview, Keya Paha county.

Snowden: “Tuesday Oct 27 Started at 8 am. After travelling back on our tracks for one & half miles to head a ravine, we travelled east, gradually turning to NE across a high level plain, with short grass. In 8 or 9 miles we found depressions in heads of ravines leading north, probably into Turtle Hill R. and the divide between these and the ones leading into L Eau qui court is very narrow. Only a few hundred yards in places. Going east for a few miles the divide widens and we struck across a broad plain, relieved by little mounds (about 10 to 15 ft. high & rough in diameter at the base) rising out of it here & there. For 7 or 8 miles when we camped on the head of a ravine, which empties into L Eau qui court, in poor grass. The country being sandy in the vicinity, but plenty of wood (pine oak etc.) in ravine, also good water. Camped at 3 1/2 o’clock.

“Made today 20 6/10 miles.”

E. Warren: “October 27th. To day we travelled 20 6/10 miles. Our road was very good most of the time it being over a high level prairie except in some places where we crossed over small rolling hills and were [=where] we travelled in little valleys. We are camped by one of the ravines of the L Eau qui court. The grass here is quite good and there is some timber a short distance from camp and there is some timber along on the bluffs of the L Eau qui court to day.”

Snowden: “Wednesday Oct 28th Starting this morning at 8 o’c we travelled through sand-hills for seventeen miles in NE direction. After this over high level plain for 6 or 7 miles when” ... and his journal continued though not being conveyed here.

E. Warren: “October 28th. To day travelled 23 1/2 miles. Our road some of the time was over small rolling hills and in small valleys and part of the time over a high level prairie. We are camped at the mouth of Turtle Hill River. The grass here is very good and there is some timber here.”

Two other prominent waterways shown on along the eastward route were Long Pine Creek on October 25th, and which had been visited two years previously by Lieut. Warren. The military map may have indicated the waterway as “Long Pine Creek” but however the depiction of the waterway features conforms more appropriately to Plum Creek with its southwesterly channel. A number of miles easterly, another waterway is shown on the military map as another primary waterway. The land features as shown historically match closely the alignment of Long Pine Creek and Bone Creek, especially in regards to distance and placement and was an attribution – due to the presence of the wild plum – as designated in 1874 by a survey team associated with the governmental General Land Office.

The Long Pine Creek of the 1850s became Plum creek on the current era. Another creek in a relatively close proximity would get the attribution of Long Pine Creek by men of doing land office surveys. By 1879 this name was indicated on an official map issued by the state of Nebraska.

There was the Keya Paha river which was crossed on the 28th of the month by the Warren Expedition. Keya Paha was indicated on the map as Turtle Hill river. A Lakota language dictionary also refers to Keya as turtle, with Paha meaning butte.

This name remains to be the modern attribution, though translated.

The expedition then continued easterly across Ponca lands – including a traverse of Ponca creek – northward of the lower L Eau qui court. The expedition eventually reached their destination, prominent Fort Randall on the Missouri river.

Survey of Late-Spring Birds at Vanderploeg Ranch

There was an unusual bird convergence during the Memorial Day weekend, because Anne Quigley is attentive at the Valentine Public Library. She was an essential link that brought together visiting birders with local bird-watchers. Mrs. Quigley made the introduction at the Valentine Public Library. Conversation ensued on a Friday afternoon with many topics of discussion, but most importantly was an agreement to have the visitors go along on a previously scheduled visit to the Vanderploeg Ranch on Sunday morning on the 28th, where Marvin Venderploeg was once again a gracious host.

Along with Mike Nicosia (from New York state) and Dan Horton (from Colorado) – both seasonal employees for the Bird Conservancy of the Rockies (BCR) – was Gordon Warrick, of Valentine.

Morning hours were spent traversing the ranch looking for different wild birds. Records were kept of specific sightings, with 62 different species observed, nearly all of them breeding season residents.

Resident Bald Eagle were lingering around their nest, and one of them was defensive as we drove past, protecting young that were likely present on a heap of sticks atop a stunted pine. We did not linger here to ensure minimal disturbance. Nearby, at the Niobrara valley marsh, only a single Trumpeter Swan was seen. Vanderploeg mentioned later that the swans did have a cygnet, but that it was a difficult season for these waterfowl because the beaver had left and the water levels kept changing, rather than being maintained at a nominal level due to the waterworks of the mammals. Despite an effort by Warrick to determine the location of a nest, it was not noticeable.

These are some notable sightings. Along the northern extent of Schlagel Creek there was a singing Black-headed Grosbeak, which has a regular range further to the west. A short distance away, was a Blue Grosbeak. Great Crested Flycatcher were pervasive among the lowland bur oak trees. Red-headed Woodpecker were boisterous, and they were certainly appreciative that there were no insidious starlings that might steal their nest cavity. There was the Orchard Oriole and the Baltimore Oriole. Both outstate visitors really enjoyed a nice bunch of Stilt Sandpiper foraging on the riverine marsh. Warblers seen included the diminutive Common Yellowthroat, American Redstart, Yellow Warbler, a vociferous Yellow-breasted Chat in a brushy swale along Schlagel Creek, and a single Ovenbird at The Island, one of the many special ranch spaces as named by our host.

Another highlight was the unusual co-occurrence of both the Eastern Wood-Pewee and Western Wood-Pewee, within the area of the Niobrara River valley well recognized for occurrences of bird hybridization as the range of a western species overlaps with one typical of the east.

A bunch of Brown-headed Cowbird were enjoying the corn spread near the house. Wild Turkeys thrive on the same source of food. He is also every attentive to the life of birds. He explained that a House wren was nesting in a tree limb cavity outside his home window, and then, there it was bringing food to its young. Nearby was a nest box occupied by a pair of Wood Duck and another by two American Kestrel.

Notable for Horton was seeing Scarlet Tanager, a pair present being a new addition to his life list of birds seen, as discovered by three birders walking among the trees, binoculars pointed in the arboreal realm to determine the bird that was singing at his place among the trees.

Because of the many wild birds present on this particular day of late spring, the known tally of species for the ranch increased to 111 from 97. A notable addition were many Swainson’s Thrush, common among the oaks of the riverine terrace. Other sorts were newly realized because there had not ever been a thorough breeding season survey completed. Shallow water conditions were conducive for the foraging sandpipers. The increase was also because the bird men present each had different skills, and as a team, there was a dramatically better result.

The last but not least species of the outing was a Loggerhead Shrike, busy hunting for lunch near the ranch entrance.

Marvin Vanderploeg is a birdman of daily occurrence from his south window, and very less often, international occurrence. This honorific is deserving he cares about birds every day, and the attention given to land management at the ranch south of Valentine. Each of us birders there on Sunday morning were in agreement. A special treat for the outstate visitors was being able to appreciate his personal collection of special birds, as carefully kept.

The BCR duo were in Valentine to enjoy some days off prior to doing contract surveys at McKelvie Forest and along the Niobrara River. They came to the Heart City, and spent dollars, because the area is a “good place to bird,” said Nicosia. They had “great birding” at Fort Niobrara NWR and then Valentine NWR where 79 species were seen on Saturday.

The work crew will eventually include eight people, as they continue eastward to surveys along the Missouri River. Their scientific protocol includes denoting bird occurrence at specific, measured grids and denoting vegetative characteristics.

Nicosia and Horton were very impressed with the unique birdlife and habitat conditions of the Vanderploeg Ranch. It was a great bird-watching field trip and each of us appreciated the uniqueness of this place where Marvin and Martin Vanderploeg are dedicated to care of the land and its natural life, big or small.

By the way, each of the two heart city visitors were given a bull-sale cap as a souvenir, having heard some words about livestock, the local sale barn and cattle grazing particulars.

The field trip was a great way to end Migratory Bird Month in Nebraska.

This is a list of the species seen.

Canada Goose Trumpeter Swan Wood Duck Green-winged Teal Wild Turkey Common Pheasant Turkey Vulture Bald Eagle Red-tailed Hawk Killdeer Stilt Sandpiper Mourning Dove Great Horned Owl Belted Kingfisher Red-headed Woodpecker Red-bellied Woodpecker Downy Woodpecker Northern Flicker American Kestrel Eastern Phoebe Western Wood-Pewee Eastern Wood-Pewee

Western Kingbird Eastern Kingbird Great Crested Flycatcher Loggerhead Shrike Warbling Vireo Red-eyed Vireo Blue Jay American Crow Cedar Waxwing Black-capped Chickadee Purple Martin Northern Rough-winged Swallow Barn Swallow Marsh Wren House Wren Blue-grey Gnatcatcher Red-breasted Nuthatch White-breasted Nuthatch Eastern Bluebird Swainson's Thrush American Robin

American Goldfinch Ovenbird Common Yellowthroat American Redstart American Yellow Warbler Yellow-breasted Chat Western Meadowlark Baltimore Oriole Orchard Oriole Red-winged Blackbird Brown-headed Cowbird Grasshopper Sparrow Chipping Sparrow Field Sparrow Lark Sparrow Spotted Towhee Scarlet Tanager Black-headed Grosbeak Blue Grosbeak

An accipiter hawk seen was seen flitting above the valley ridge, but was too far away to determine an accurate identification.

Niobrara Valley Wildlife Area Bird Resurvey After 35 Years

There was distinctly unique outing for birding purposes on May 6th, 2017 to Anderson Bridge WMA along the Niobrara River in northern Cherry county, Nebraska. Along with gracious driver and compatriot Gordon Warrick, we left Valentine on a fine spring, Saturday morning. Temperatures were warm and wind was slight at the start. It was the start of a fine spring day in the Great American Sandhills^tm.

We watched and I kept track of the wildbirds seen. Notable along the county road near the Stoner Ranch southwest of Kilgore — and just east of a proposed wind turbine facility — was an especially fine view of a Swainson’s Hawk sitting on a fence post, adjusting its wings as it basked in the morning sun. Suddenly a Loggerhead Shrike darted away to the south. This bit of roadside watching resulted in the only observation of these two species for the day. An Upland Sandpiper was also expressive here, and was an initial indication of their return for another breeding season. The environmental assessment done for the project two years ago did not record the occurrence of the Swainson's Hawk. Of course the developers consultant company did not do any May surveys.

Proper Name May 1982 May 2017 Canada Goose - - 7 Wood Duck 6 6 Mallard 2 2 Blue-winged Teal 2 9 Wild Turkey 0 - - Common Pheasant 0 - - Great Blue Heron 0 - - Turkey Vulture 6 4 Swainson's Hawk 0 - - Red-tailed Hawk 0 1 Killdeer 0 - - Upland Sandpiper 0 1 Mourning Dove 0 10 Great Horned Owl 1 - - Belted Kingfisher 1 1 Red-headed Woodpecker 0 - - Downy Woodpecker 0 1 Northern Flicker 0 1 American Kestrel 0 1 Least Flycatcher - - 1 Western Kingbird 0 - - Blue Jay 0 1 American Crow 0 1 Cedar Waxwing - - 8 Black-capped Chickadee 0 8 Horned Lark 0 - - Northern Rough-winged Swallow 0 2 Barn Swallow 0 - - House Wren 0 8 White-breasted Nuthatch - - 1 Eastern Bluebird - - 2 American Robin 0 1 American Goldfinch 0 3 Common Yellowthroat 0 1 Western Meadowlark 0 1 Red-winged Blackbird 0 25 Brown-headed Cowbird 0 6 Common Grackle 0 5 Song Sparrow - - 1 Lincoln's Sparrow - - 1 White-crowned Sparrow - - 1 Chipping Sparrow 0 6 Vesper Sparrow 0 - - Lark Sparrow - - 2 Spotted Towhee 0 10 Northern Cardinal 0 2

Upon reaching the valley of the running water river, the actual reason for this outing became prevalent. There was a greater focus on bird activity and my pencil was active on paper to denote the details. After crossing the running water river of grandeur, a true sense of time descended.

It was May 6, 1982 when my first visit was made to this itty-bitty wildlife area of just 137 acres. Though small in size it is a special place with a very nice variety of wildbird species and is very conducive to an overnight stay. There are no facilities, but only weaky people rely on this aspect when they might decide on where to enjoy the natural glories of the Niobrara river.

Because this is a public place was the reason for my first visit to birding in the greater sandhills’ region on a May day in 1982. A bird list was kept but it did not include the number present for all of the 37 bird species observed. Being a complete rookie interloper from an urban setting, this visit was an initial experience to just get used to being at a wild place in newly realized Cherry county ... so different from natural areas visited while birding in eastern Nebraska — some specific outings associated with research work needed to get a M.A. degree in biology while considering the effects of habitat managment on nongame birds occurring with surveys at Twin Oaks WMA in Johnson County, NE. Further visits did ensue to this wildlife area in July with a few notes kept at Merritt Reservoir, and the eventually many more sandhill spaces of known recognition. There were many multitude of visits that occurred on a continual basis, involving a drive to multiple hundreds of distinct localities – some many times – and recording species seen and numbers present. If it was not an actual count there was a number designated based upon the presence of a species, the extent of available habitat and then approximation. It is completely impossible to count the number of Red-winged Blackbird at a expansive place like Carson Lake, but there is certainly more than one of this species present when a number is given. Wherever possible, an accurate count has been indicated.

A Legacy Visit

The 2017 visit on May 6th was not by two “spring-chickens” so we appreciated the recently established mown grass route to stroll westward from the parking area and then on the north side of the marsh.

In past years, I’d have hiked up the southern slope of the valley, after pausing to look at the cabin remains, then making sure to look and listen to anything birdly on the upland, continuing by walking a distance westward to stop and linger and relax at one of the best overlooks in this section of the river valley and then plunged down the steep hillside to the bottoms for further exploration.

Having a mown trail along nearly level land now makes it much simpler and certainly easier on aching bones. In past years it would have be a difficult to hike some areas of the WMA due to the too thick growth of invasive cedar. Habitat management has cut away invasive trees. Prescribed burns have been planned for the area.

Two notable site features noted during our outing were 1) a seemingly newly prominent cellar of stone walls and an eastern doorway very near what had been a bubbling spring until the water feature was inundated by pondworks of the beaver, and 2) cowpies and tracks of cattle though there did not seem to be any signs of any grazing, so were these transitory livestock?

Species Considerations

During our outing in May 2017, there were 35 different species observed. This visit was a bit early in the season – though it was a day with high temperatures in the lower 80s – as there are bird lists for dates later during May when there is a much greater bird occurrence, including even the Barn Swallow as well as the appreciated and so vividly expressive Yellow-breasted Chat.

The number of species noted on our outing in 2017 compare to 37 species in 1982 on the same calendar date.

Combining the results to these two particular visits, the tally is 46 species. Spotted Towhee and House Wren were prevalent among the woods. It was great to see what was apparently a male “wing-fluttering” Black-capped Chickadee courting another chickadee, which was probably a female. The prominent bird’s call was different and its behavior that neither of us two bird men had ever seen, despite conglomerate decades of experience. This instance conveys that there is always something to learn by listening, looking and giving attention to the regular activities of wildbirds. That exhibitory chickadee was incessant in its purpose; the other chickadee went nowhere as the pair — obviously a couple — kept together in their arboreal realm.

Nearby was a cavity in a box elder where a pair of these special little birds had seemingly found a home for the season. Remember that their vocalizations include a sound which can be easily interpreted as sounding everything like “hello” as they go about daily actions for their survival. If you hear this sound, it means that you will have a great day because these little songsters have conveyed a message that needs to be appreciated?

Overall for this locality there are more than 800 records available for 120 species of wildbirds, when all available records are considered.

Any visit to this area is not about deriving records to comparison. It is most essentially a hike where birds and natural land features can be seen and appreciated. Especially noted at the state wildlife management area was the “huge” beaver lodge in the marsh. The construct was been present for a multitude of years. The residents have extended their water environs from what was present decades ago. The earthworks constructed bit-by-bit by the “little paws” of busy beavers. They have done a supreme job as they are natural experts of engineering, knowing just where to place mud to constrict a flow and improve their swimmable living space. They are also know how to take advantage of landscape features, including stabilizing tree trunks to facilitate their efforts. Also enjoyed here — for a brief interlude — were the pushing activities of two small burying bettle pushing along — with their hind legs — a bigger bit of dung, as they went about their big task of the day.

Hand Exclosure, McKelvie Division

While in the area, we also visited the Hand Exclosure at the McKelvie Division of the Nebraska National Forest. It is just a relatively short distance of travel eastward down the country road. Along the way we noted the occurrence of additional species. They were prairie birds vibrant along the way and near the Forest Service property. We added a Western Kingbird sitting on a fence wire, more than one Grasshopper Sparrow, a Vesper Sparrow in the same space and some Horned Lark of the prairie. It seemed that each time that a bird on the fenceline became an intent of our attention, it flew away. Thankfully some of the "little brown jobs" stayed stationary long enough. A special appreciation for one of us birders was enjoying a so subtle tinge of the feather coloration of a Grasshopper Sparrow.

At the forest service property, there were as least two strident Red-breasted Nuthatch in the pines south of the Niobrara valley wetland space on Forest Service property. On the river bottom was a vivid flycather of the willow sort. A Red Crossbill flew above the place while we took a few minutes to rest at a place where the most vibrant plant colors of this day of the season were bits of moss clinging to a tree trunk on the edge of the marsh. A Common Yellowthroat was heard as it sang among the thick vegetation.

There were some distinct colors of bryophytes on a fallen snag on the southside of the marsh. It was too mucky to traverse the few feet to get a photo. Any temptation to collect a specimen was thwarted by the thought that it might be too much of an imposition on someone else to rely on an identification, and it would take years of study from some unknown guide to identification to learn the minutia essential to personally indicate a proper name.

After the trek at this public property with too many cedars and steep terrain, and trying to adhere to property boundaries, we had to go back up the valley slope. We found what may have been a former roadway, so hiking was easier as it had become quite warm. Upon getting back to our ride, there was a working water pump right there and our thirst was slaked and surely eased the rigor and dry mouth from strenuous hiking. We also realized the best route to take if any future visit occurs?

It was a great day of birding amidst distinct Niobrara valley spaces. It was done because two Valentine guys cared enough to travel, look and listen, and partake in natural learning.

Nesting cavity of Black-capped Chickadee pair at Anderson Bridge WMA. A pair of these birds were seen here.

A pair of flat black-colored burying beetles were seen moving this dung. The activity was noted by Mr. Warrick as we hiked along; he was looking at the ground and saw movement so we stopped and took a closer look. The beetles were working hard at their existential chore.

During our time outdoors we pondered what this place might have looked like in 1857 when the Warren expedition travelled traversed the north side of the valley. Certainly the mighty men of local tribes could have readily ridden their horses along through the valley. Any such effort would now be impossible due to a relatively uncontrolled invasion of red cedar trees as well as an increased growth of pine trees.

This chatter has meant further personal ponderings. What will this habitat space look like in a century? Will it be such a distinct natural haven that a permit will be required for anyone wanting to make any sort of visit? Will access be available only to certain approved scientists on governmentally approved tasks and restrained to only approved activities? What is the preferred condition of the wild land habitat, and what metrics will be used to determine its condition? There is no steady-state in nature and so any indicated situation has to be dynamic and changing on a timeline of several years! Will regulations constrict the use of controlled burns, as they degrade air quality and might be a hazard to country resident with breathing problems? This could effectively shut down the use of this well-used habitat management tool during 2017. What funds will be available to ensure that federal and state areas get the attention they require?

Certainly modern-era tools will have to be used. Will aerial drones be used to present a view of wildlands to the public because a place is off-limits in order to conserve the resource and avoid any possible degradation? Will these drones have acoustical recognition equipment able to listen to ambient sounds to a degree that bird songs can be recognized? It would be relatively easy to have a grid established where the drone would hover for a specified amount of time, record sounds and then move to the next spot of a survey area, as breeding residents obviously sing to express their claim to a territory. Imagery could be kept to denote species that may not be heard. A technician in a laboratory would then do an analysis to determine specifics. There would be software available to analyze bird songs and readily identify the species. Technology could readily and regularly denote a consistent record of wildbird occurrence, and this could be done much easier than what is now being done by human efforts. Significantly, there would be aberrant visitors allowed because the natural havens would have to be strictly protected from any environmental degradation because so much of the natural world has been ruined.

Conservation of wild lands is a long-term proposition, and it needs to be done in a manner to ensure long-term survial of their myriad features. The question is, how is this essential goal being addressed now by the state and federal agencies which own public lands? What are the next generations realities for the Sand Hills and Cherry County?

Too many questions without answers!

Flora and Other Notes of 1857 Warren Expedition in Nebraska Territory

The government expedition led by Lieutenant Gouverneur Kemble Warren - a topographic engineer of the U.S. Army – arrived in Omaha city, traveling via steamboat from St. Louis. Others of the expedition had travelled on the steamer Twilight to Bellevue. While Warren went to Sioux City, the remainder of the group left the Missouri valley on June 27 and made their way to the Loup Fork.

While crossing the Elk Horn on June 30th, topographer J.H. Snowden in his daily journal of notable events and weather conditions, wrote of scrub oak, cottonwood and ash growing on the valley bluffs. Prairie land was noted further along, and was prevalent along the bottom of the Platte river.

Upon reaching the river further along on July 2nd: “The wood along the river is cottonwood in groves some of which are quite large, however not extending far back from the stream.” Near a place called “White lake” just eastward of Columbus city, the cottonwood was principally limited to islands in the Platte.

On July 11th, cottonwood logs 18 inches in diameter and 12 feet long were used to build a raft to transport supplies across the Elk Horn, Warren wrote in his journal. On the 14th was some “rough oak wood and ash” were noted as this party was making their way across Shell creek and to join up with Snowden and others on the Loup fork.

After the rendezvous, on July 19th, the expedition started westward up the Loup, its channel denoted by a fringe of cottonwoods. The party included military men, 24 employees as teamsters and herders and two hunters. Overall there were 51 men and provisions for one month, Warren wrote in his journal. There were eleven mule-drawn wagons and an ambulance, with 77 mules and 23 horses.

The first camp was at Looking Glass creek where the settlement of Monroe was being established. Just before this place, wood was limited to islands in the river. After going through Genoa and reaching Beaver creek, scrub oak and cottonwood were noted by J. Hudson Snowden, who was responsible for noting the topography. Near an abandoned Pawnee village: “All the ravines near this village are filled with oak,” he wrote. On reaching the mouth of the Calamus river on July 21st, scrub oak filled all the ravines, as observed by Mr. P.M. Engel, another topographer.

The next day while near the mouth of the North fork of the Loup, Snowden noted: “The wood thus far decreases as we ascent the valley being confined to islands and isolated points where the fires which yearly consume the grass, can-not reach it.”

Cedar and oak filled area ravines on the 23rd while at Warren’s fork, the lieutenant noted during his foray to the north fork.

Along the Middle fork route and for a distance of nine miles, most of the grass had been “burned out” and the fire was moving to the north and northwest, Snowden’s entry for the day mentioned. Most of the wood was limited to islands and isolated points.

On the 24th there was plenty of cottonwood along what was called “Carrey’s fork.” Also present were willow bushes and groves. Cottonwood continued to occur during the route traveled on the 25th with buffalo grass growing on the river bottom.

A few pine trees on the bluffs were seen on the 27th while along the Loup fork, noted Warren. Snowden referred to three of four of these trees.
On the 28th, Snowden noted that portions of the sand hills were nearly entirely “destitute” of vegetation. There were a few cherry and currant bushes.

Buffalo were abundant as the month ended. The grass in area was “inferior” and had been eaten down by large herds of these grazers.
On August 2nd, Warren and Dr. F.V. Hayden went about 17 miles south to what was called the Sandhills Fork, which was probably the waterway that would become known as the Dismal river. There were oak, ash and cherry growing on its bank.

Along the middle fork on August 4th: “Wood oak ash cedar. Cherries abundant not quite ripe,” Warren wrote. Snowden noted: “… wood begins ash oak etc. which now grows in considerable quantities along the valley and in the ravines. … A great many plum & cherry bushes flourish around our camp, the latter being loaded with fruit.”

On the next day Warren wrote: “The sand hills are generally covered with grass, and quite firm, but they are composed of immense hilly masses the surface of which are formed into small hills.” Cedar and oak present at the camp.

Near camp on the 9th, were “many sand cherry bushes, which grow to the height of about one-foot, and laden with fruit now ripe” Snowden wrote. A party that went a couple of miles northward to a fresh water lake, returned with some ash wood found along the border of a lake with potable water. The day’s march was seven miles. Other salt water lakes were noted as being “destitute” of vegetation except a “salt-rush” with the edge of the lake encrusted with salt.

On the 10th, in the western sand hills Snowden noted two fresh water lakes with a “luxuriant growth of grass rushes & weed around them and a few stunted ash trees, goose-berry and cherry bushes on the sides of the hills.” Warren wrote that the lakes were “very nearly covered with grass rushes and flags…”

The “numerous freshwater and saline lakes are scattered about these sandhills, affording a resort for myriads of water birds, ducks, geese, gulls, &c.,” according to Hayden’s report.

During the day, Snowden wrote about the impact of wind on the hills’ vegetation: “The road to day was very sandy and hard on the animals, especially when crossing the ridges between the valleys, where the winds cut the sand out of the sides of the hills, and blow away all the vegetation.”

This would be a reference to blowouts. This could also be the sort of habitat where the blowout penstemon would occur.

The party reached L’eau qui court – the “swift flowing stream” – on August 13th, where “A few cottonwood trees fringed the river,” Snowden wrote. Short buffalo grass grew on a high mesa on the north side of the river.

Pine were noted later in the day, and continued to occur on the valley bluffs. Also notable for these days were many signs of travelling Indians.
The entire expedition then went westward to Laramie for refitting, leaving the Niobrara valley on the 15th of August.

Numerous days later, while some of the military men continued explorations in the Black Hills and adjacent Dakota territory, a group under the direction of Lieut. James McMillan that included Snowden returned to the valley of L’eau qui court, moving slowly eastward along the running water.

Along the Niobrara River Valley

As the party moved along the Niobrarah river valley, a few cottonwoods were noted again on September 22nd and provided a scant bit of wood to burn. During some of the days, there was no wood available for the cooking fires.

Mr. Snowden mapped the route of the expedition while Mr. Engel travelled along the river, preparing maps of its topography. Reptile species were collected and then identified later.

Along the river bottom were there was “very fine” grass “intermixed with many rushes of which the animals are exceedingly fond.”

On the 23rd along the river, Snowden noted on the river bottom where “cottonwood, ash cherry trees grow to some extent and with many grape vines hanging in rich festoons over the branches … the cherry & grape are now ripe, but the later are very acid.” There were some pine on the bluffs.

For a portion of the day’s travel, Snowden conveyed that “Standing Elk accompanied us a few miles before he started back. He told us he knew the country through which we were travelling belonged to the ‘Great Father’ but that the game grass wood etc. all was the property of the Brule Indians and if we had any powder and balls to spare he would be most thankful for it.”

During the day’s travel, there was a small creek that met with the L’eau qui court, and at this place the river water was “running through the rushes and high grass. Also along the running water, there was “considerable growth of ash cottonwood & grape vines plum & cherry bushes flourish on the bottom, these for the past few days have been betraying the presence of the approach of autumn, the foliage partaking of all the varied tints – which blended together – give the bottom of the river as you look down upon it from the high bluff banks a most beautiful & rich appearance.” During the evening, two lodges of Brule Indians (a.k.a. Sichangus or Burnt Thighs) were camped a couple of miles eastward along the river, and some of them visited the camp to sell some fresh meat, Snowden said. Indications of riverine beaver were noted.

On Friday the 25th with the woody vegetation increasing as the descent of the river continued. The grass was not so good. There were pine in the ravines of the river valley, though not “however in sufficient quantity.” A notable wildlife observation for the day “were a great many antelope” of which two were killed for meat to be cooked at camp fires and served hot for supper.

Along the tributary stream explored by Snowden and Dr. Moffett explored on Saturday, unique rock formations were noted. Wood extended only about three miles up this waterway, with only a few large trees. “The slopes of the hills are gradual, and the grass in the valley is very good.” The creek valley was filled with hundreds of antelope, and “the water holes covered with flocks of small teal ducks.” This creek was designated as Antelope creek.

One of the expedition men returned from the mouth of the Snake river – which was across the river from the government camp – having met traders of the American Fur Company. Large flocks of cranes flew over the camp on the evening of September 27th. These would be migrating Sandhill Cranes.
On the 28th, Snowden noted an increase in the extent of pine growing in ravines along the L’eau qui court. A couple of days later, while at the White Earth creek, there was plenty of wood for fuel.

At the White Earth creek (“Maca sca Wakpa,”in tribal language; i.e., modern-era Leander creek) had a valley filled with small pine. Along its banks there were “immense quantities of plum bushes laden with fruit now ripe, and grapes in profusion.” There were “many signs of elk in the vicinity and several were seen,” according to Snowden.

Noted by Snowden on October 3rd in this vicinity where the military expedition camped for about two weeks, there were some red cedar in the hills. “Some large cottonwood grow along the banks of the river, and a few pine in the ravines.”

There was a bountiful amount of wild fruit, appreciated by the men in camp, with the situation well described by Snowden in his October 5th journal entry: “Since we arrived at this camp the men have been luxuriating in plums & grapes the camp being full of the fruit all the time and it has had a very beneficial effect on checking the scurvy which began to show itself amongst the soldiers.”

A species of cane was noted on the sixth in the narrow “Niobrarah” valley that was filled with springs and boggy bottoms. The plants were “fifteen feet high and very thick grow in places. While red willow grow in great profusion in the wet places while the rose & plum & cherry bushes chose higher ground.” A horse sank in a bog along the river valley. “Grass along the river is nearly all dead as are the rushes,” as noted among the hand-written notes kept by Snowden. There was considerable “course grass but the animals do not touch it.” Also present were some scattered cottonwood trees.

A confrontation occurred on October 11th between 22 Brule Indians and the military expedition that was traversing tribal lands. There was a tribal war party that left the Snake river vicinity where chief “White Black Bird” was on his death bed, and the men had a “paper” given him by General Harney, a couple of years earlier. The tribal men rode into the military camp, with bows drawn and arrows nocked in place, with a perspective that the invasive white men were “French traders they were going to take all our property,” according to the Snowden journal. The tribe’s men were “very indignant” and wanted payment for the expedition to traverse their country. One complaint was that the government men “were eating all their plums & wild fruit and burning their wood … that our [i.e., U.S. government] horses were eating and destroying all the grass along the river, that we were killing and scaring away all the game that they met the buffalo & antelope flying from our approach 100 miles before they reached us,” Snowden wrote. General Harney was supposedly required to provide a “license” to come into the country. It was a “difficult time” to get the war party to leave the military camp, he said.

During the morning of the 12th, the Indians departed, with an indicated intent to meet with “Little Thunder” as the transitory lodges of the native people were moving from their place in vicinity of the Snake river.

Numerous men of the expedition traveled a short distance eastward this day, hauling along “picks and spades” to “make a crossing to White Earth Cr. and improve the hill on opposite side” of a natural land feature along the expected route. There was little that could be done on the latter item, Snowden wrote.

Along the river on the 13th day of the month, Snowden wrote: “The grass here is only tolerable, but wood in abundance for fuel. The river here is comparatively straight for some distance. About 100 yards wide filled with sand bars & shallow below our camp it narrows very much to not more than 15 to twenty yds wide is very crooked & rushes along high walls of soft rock, after receiving the waters of the creek which I think is Little Rapid R.” Based upon land topography and map interpretation, this site would be what is now known as McCann Canyon.

Cedar and a “little pine” were denoted by Snowden as seen during the 22 miles of travel during the day.

This expeditionary group spent several days at this place, awaiting the arrival of others associated with the Warren expedition that had traversed other lands of these plains.

On October 15th, the “motley group of men presenting quite a fantastical appearance” as led by Lieut. Warren rejoined the portion of the expedition that had been languishing along the L’eau qui court at a camp by the mouth of what came to be known as Bear creek.

For a few days the group remained at this camp. They talked. They reorganized supplies. There was four inches of snow and cold on the 17th.
As the government expedition continued their eastward trek, they reached the Little Rapid river (i.e., the waterway within the modern-day McCann canyon). Woody plants present “Pine and cedar grow in the bluffs while a few elm & cottonwood & cherry bushes fringe the banks.” There were pine in other area ravines, Snowden wrote. “Pine is increasing in quantity & size as we descend but wood in the bottoms diminishes in quantity.”

On October 19th, Edgar W. Warren denoted some cottonwood growing along the L’eau qui court. Some pine timber was noted along the valley bluffs on the 20th. Words written by Snowden referred to “fine springs” in ravines and sands hills to the north showing “their white summits.” There was timber at a distant place.

Warren again noted pine on the 22nd. Most often his account simply referred to the presence of timber.

A few large ash were noted on the 22nd, growing on the river bottom with “good grass,” a few miles west of the confluence of the Snake river, according to Snowden. The L’eau qui court had “many little low grassy islands.” Pine was said to not be very abundant.

On the 23rd, the running water river for a few miles was “filled with large islands there running in a very narrow channel inclosed between steep & broken hills. Pine in considerable quantities on south side, but none on north before reaching the mouth of the small river which is 2 ½ miles back from our camp.”

The military group as was a relatively short distance eastward of the Mini-cha-duza wakpa (or Rapid creek; now designated as Minnechaduza Creek). On October 25th, near the camp, ravines were “filled with scrub oak, ash, a few elm, plum & cherry bushes in the beds, while their sides are covered by pine.” Near the mouth of a tributary there was found some black walnut.

The route of the expedition continued along the north side of the traversable Niobrara valley.

Near Long Pine creek (initially identified as the creek where the pine grows long out in 1855) on October 26th, with Snowden mentioning pine being present in the ravines, according to his journal entry for the day. On the 27th, there was “plenty of wood” represented by “pine oak etc.” The distance travelled for the day was 20 and 6/10 miles.

The camp site on October 28th was beside the mouth of the Keya Paha (or turtle butte) river. By the end of the month, the expedition was in the Dakota territory, on their way to Fort Randall, on the Missouri river, which was reached on November 1st.

Flora Records of the Era

Assistance in identification of some of these species was provided by professor C. Dewey to Dr. Hayden. This current list of plant species has been developed with the assistance of Dr. David M. Sutherland, professor emeritus at the University of Nebraska at Omaha. His interest and help were essential to convey the historic notations in a manner suitable to current botanical identifications.
Information given is plant family; indicated or designated scientific name; plant locale notes; then plant modern name or other notes; perhaps notations on the interpreted modern locality; and record source.

Amaranthaceae

Froelichia floridana Moq.; sandhills; plains snakecotton; Hayden 1862

Apiaceae

Leptocaulis patens Nutt.; Loup fork; scaleseed, Spermolepis patens; Hayden 1862

Apocynaceae

Acerates viridiflora Ell.; Loup fork, July 27th; green milkweed, Asclepias viridiflora; northeast Custer county; Hayden 1862

Anantherix viridis Nutt.; Loup fork, July 16th; green antelope-horn, Asclepias viridis; area of Loup fork confluence; Hayden 1862, Warren 1875

Asclepias incarnata Linn.; moist places on the Loup fork; swamp milkweed; Hayden 1862

Asclepias macranthera, Torr.; Loup fork; a milkweed; specimen would need to be studied to determine a proper identity, according to Dr. Sutherland; Hayden 1862, Warren 1875

Asclepias Meadi, Torr.; Loup fork, sandhills; Mead’s milkweed [A. Meadii]; not known to occur in Nebraska so specimen would need to be studied to determine proper identification, according to Dr. David Sutherland; Hayden 1862

Brassicaceae

Thelypodium integrifolium; Loup fork; entireleaved thelypody or foxtail thelypodium; Hayden 1862

Caryophyllaceae

Silene Drummondi Hook.; Loup fork; Drummond's campion, Silene drummondii; Hayden 1862

Cistaceae

Lechea major Michx.; Sand hills, Loup fork; probably frostweed, Crocanthemum bicknelii according to Dr. Sutherland; Hayden 1862

Lechea minor Lam.; Sand hills, Loup fork; pinweed, probably Lechia stricta or L. muconata according to Dr. Sutherland; Hayden 1862

Clemmaceae

Cristatella Jamesii Torr. and Gray; Loup fork; James' clammyweed, Polanisia jamesii (Torr. & A. Gray) Iltis; Hayden 1862

Cleomaceae

Polanisia uniglandulosa Gray; on Loup Fork; now clammy weed, Polanisia dodecandra; Nebraska subspecies is trachysperma; Warren 1875

Convolvulaceae

Calystegia sepium R. Br.; Loup fork; hedge bindweed; Hayden 1862

Ipomea leptophylla Torr.; in the sandhills on Loup fork, along the Niobrara, it is very abundant; bush morning-glory; Hayden 1862, Warren 1875

Crassulaceae

Penthorum seloides Linn.; Loup fork; ditch stonecrop, Penthorum sedioides; Hayden 1862

Cupressaceae

Juniperus virginiana L.; along the Loup fork and the Niobrara river; eastern red cedar; Warren or Snowden journals

Euphorbiaceae

Croton muricatum Nutt.; sandhills; likely sand spurge, Croton texenis, according to Dr. Sutherland; Hayden 1862

Euphorbia hexagona Nutt.; sandhills of Loup fork, Niobrara; abundant; sixangle spurge; Hayden 1862

Euphorbia hypericifolia Linn.; sandhills on Loup fork; most likely Missouri spurge, Euphorbia missourica; Hayden 1862

Fabaceae

Amorpha canescens Nutt.; very abundant on the upland prairies; Loup fork, and Niobrara river; leadplant; Hayden 1862, Warren 1875

Fagaceae

Psoralea digitata Nutt.; Sand hills on Loup fork; now palmleaf Indian breadroot, Pediomelum digitatum; Hayden 1862

Quercus macrocarpa Michx.; along the Niobrara river; bur oak; Warren or Snowden journals

Gentianaceae

Eustoma Russelianum G. Don.; around saline lakes in the sandhills of Loup fork and Niobrara; very abundant; August; showy prairie gentian; western sandhills in August; Hayden 1862

Grossulariaceae

Ribes hirtellum Michx.; in the western sandhills; gooseberry; Warren or Snowden journals

Ribes odoratum H. Wendl.; along the Loup fork in the central sandhills; buffalo currant; Warren or Snowden journals

Juglandaceae

Juglans nigra L.; in the Niobrara valley eastward of Minnechaduza creek; black walnut; Warren or Snowden journals

Juncaceae

Juncus species; at lakes in the western sandhills; rush; Warren or Snowden journals

Juncaginaceae

Brunella officinalis Linn.; along the Loup fork, July 30th; a species of broomrape; Brunella officinalis is now Prunella vulgaris or self-heal, according to Dr. Sutherland; Middle Loup river; northwest Blaine county; Hayden 1862

Lamiaceae

Monarda aristata Nutt.; Sandhills on Loup fork, August 1st; probably plains bee-balm, Monarda punctata; Middle Loup river; ca. Thomas county; Hayden 1862

Montelia tamariscina Gray; sandhills on Loup fork; water-hemp, Monarda clinopodioides; Hayden 1862

Pyenanthemum lanceolatum Pursh; Loup fork, July 31, 1857; specimen most likely Virginia mountain-mint, Pycnanthemum virginianum; Middle Loup river, ca. Thomas county; Hayden 1862

Malvaceae

Callirhoe macrohiza Gray; Loup fork, July 22nd; now pink poppy-mallow, Callirhoe alacaeoides; historic Pawnee reservation on the lower Loup river; Hayden 1862

Oleaceae

Fraxinus pennsylvanica Marsh.; along the Loup fork, in the western sandhills and along the Niobrara river; green ash; Warren or Snowden journals

Onagraceae

Oenothera rhombipetala Nutt.; Sand hills, August 4th; a primrose; Middle Loup river, Mullen vicinity; Hayden 1862

Oenothera spinulosa var. Drummondii; Loup fork of the Platte, July; a species of evening primrose that would need to be studied to determine the specific species; Hayden 1862

Papaveraceae

Argemone hispida Gray; Loup fork; rough pricklypoppy and no doubt Argemone polyanthemos according to Dr. Sutherland; Hayden 1862, Warren 1875

Pinaceae

Pinus ponderosa P.& C. Lawson; on butte along the Niobrara river valley; ponderosa pine; Warren or Snowden journals

Poaceae

Phragmites australis (Cav.) Trin. ex Steud.; along the Niobrara river on October 6th, i.e., at the mouth of Leander creek; noted as a species of cane growing 15 feet high and with a very thick growth; perhaps common reed; Warren or Snowden journals

Polemoniaceae

Gilia longiflora Torr.; in sandhills of Niobrara river; showy ipoposis, Ipomopsis longiflora; Hayden 1862, Warren 1875

Polygonaceae

Eriogonum Jamesii Benth.; sandhills; most likely annual wild-buckwheat, Eriogonum annuum according to Dr. Sutherland; Hayden 1862

Polygonaceae

Rumex venosus Pursh.; Loup fork; wild begonia; Warren 1875

Portulacaceae

Talinum parviflorum Nutt.; Sand hills on Loup fork; sunbright, Phemeranthus parviflorus; Hayden 1862

Ranunculaceae

Anemone cylindrica Gray; Loup fork; candle anemone; Hayden 1862, Warren 1875

Pulsatilla patens D.C.; in the sand hills of Loup Fork; now pasque flower, Anemone patens; Warren 1875

Rhamnaceae

Ceanothus ovalis Bigelow, var. pubescens; sand hills of Loup Fork on the Niobrara river; new jersey tea or Ceanothus herbaceous; Hayden 1862, Warren 1875

Rosaceae

Prunus americana Marsh.; along the Niobrara river; wild plum; Warren or Snowden journals

Prunus pumila, Linn.; abundant in the sand hills of Loup fork; western sandcherry with Nebraska plants are variety besseyi, according to Dr. Sutherland; Hayden 1862, Warren 1875

Salicaceae

Populus deltoides Bartr. ex Marsh.; along the Loup fork and Niobrara river; plains cottonwood; Warren or Snowden journals

Salix species; along the lower Loup fork; along Niobrara river; willow and red willow; Warren or Snowden journals

Scrophulariaceae

Pentstemon acuminatus Lindl.; Sandhills on Loup fork; sharpleaf penstemon; might possibly be blowout penstemon, Penstemon haydenii S. Wats., according to Dr. Sutherland; a specimen collected is in the Gray herbarium at Harvard University and has been identified to P. haydenii (Sutherland 1988); Hayden 1862

Pentstemon Fendleri Gray; Sandhills on Loup fork; may possibly be Penstemon acuminatus, according to Dr. Sutherland; Hayden 1862

Petalostemum macrostachyium Torr.; Sand hills along the Loup fork and Niobrara; Petalostemon macrostachys is Dalea cylindrices; a rare but not unlikely species; the specimen would need to be seen to make certain its identification, according to Dr. Sutherland; Hayden 1862

Petalostemum villosum Nutt.; sand hills on Loup fork; now silky prairie-clover, Dalea villosa; Hayden 1862

Ulmaceae

Ulmus americana L.; along the Niobrara river; American elm; Warren or Snowden journals

Vitaceae

Vitis riparia Michx.; along the Niobrara river; riverbank grape; Warren or Snowden journals

Undetermined: Allium stellatum Nutt.; Loup Fork; likely a misdetermination as discussed by Robert Kaul in Flora of Nebraska; may be a variety of Allium canadense according to Dr. Sutherland; prairie onion or autumn onion; Warren 1875. Also: Indeterminate name; in the western sandhills; flag the noted plant type; the identification of this species cannot be determined; Warren or Snowden journals

References

Photocopies of the hand-written journals of G.K. Warren and J.H. Snowden available from federal archives.

Ferdinand V. Hayden. 1862. On the geology and natural history of the upper Missouri. Transactions of the American Philosophical Society 12: 1-218.

David M. Sutherland. 1988. Historical notes on collections and taxonomy of Penstemon haydenii S. Wats. (blowout penstemon), Nebraska's only endemic plant species. Transactions of the Nebraska Academy of Sciences 16: 191-194.

G.K. Warren. 1875. Preliminary report of explorations in Nebraska and Dakota in the years 1855-’56-’57. Government Printing Office reprint. 125 pages.